Home-made Stuff Sacks

Me Sewing a Stuff Sack

Ever since I stumbled across the excellent instructions of how to make a silnylon stuff sack on Thru-Hiker's website, I've wanted to try making some for myself.  The only problem was I didn't have a sewing machine.  I had bought a couple of yards of inexpensive 1.1oz ripstop silnylon fabric from Quest Outfitters in anticipation of either getting my own sewing machine or borrowing one from someone.  Well, getting hold of a sewing machine took a lot longer than I had planned and along the way I sort of forgot about my little pet project and focused on other things.

In addition to purchasing the silnylon, I had received some small samples of Cuben Fiber from Jon Holweger at CubenFiber.com.  If your not familiar with Cuben Fiber (where have you been?) I suggest you do some Googling to learn more about this amazing material.  In a nutshell, it's the fabric of choice for high-end ultralight backpacks, shelters, and gear.  It weighs almost nothing and is incredibly strong and durable - it's also pretty darn expensive.  My plan was to practice making gear using the much more affordable silnylon and then use Cuben Fiber for a few special projects once I felt more competent using the sewing machine.

So, fast forward about 18 months and I am finally in possession of a really nice Kenmore electric sewing machine with all the bells and whistles thanks to a very good friend.  During the time that I was hunting for a sewing machine I had found a great source for ultralight cord locks and the thin cord needed for the draw string mechanism, via ZPacks.com run by Joe Valesko. For my stuff sack projects I chose to use the incredibly small 0.2oz "Tiny" cord locks and 1mm polyester 80lb cord that Joe offers.

Silnylon Stuff Sack

Using the step-by-step stuff sack instructions on Thru-Hiker I made my first small silnylon stuff sack (see above).  It wasn't perfect and I had trouble getting the button hole foot thingy on the sewing machine to do what I wanted it to do, but it doesn't have any loose seams and it works!

Since my first few attempts I have made several more stuff sacks of varying sizes using my silnylon and I'm really getting the hang of the finer points of machine sewing such as, thread tension, bobbin spooling and replacement, reverse stitches, french and felled seams and much more.  I've even made a couple of really small Cuben Fiber stuff sacks using the samples that were sent to me - waste not, want not.

Cuben Fiber Stuff Sack

When I'm feeling a little more adventurous I'd like to take a stab at making my own tarp tent using Henry Shires' classic (and free) TarpTent instructions.  If I do make the tarptent I'll be sure to create a post about it and share my experience with you all right here. Another cool and reasonably simple looking little sewing project is Steve Evan's Cuben Fiber Tarp which he describes in great detail via his two-part YouTube video series, although he has to get his mom to do the sewing for him - that part's hilarious.

Cuben Fiber Stuff Sack

I've really enjoyed making the few things that I have done so far and I'm looking forward to making bigger and better (not heavier) things as time permits. There's definitely gives me a sense of pride to have made something functional with my own hands and I take tremendous pleasure in using and sharing gear that I have made.  Each piece has its own little story.

Have you sewn together any of your own backpacking gear, and if so do you have any lessons learned that you'd like to share?

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Small Pens for Backpacking

Rite in the Rain Pencil Hack

I like to take notes and keep a trail journal while I'm hiking, so having a reliable pen or small pencil handy is a must for me.  For the longest time I've carried a standard #2 pencil cut down to size so that it fits along the spine of my Rite in the Rain notebook, with the help of a little yellow duct tape.

Recently I've started looking at options for carrying a small ballpoint or gel/roller pen instead of my small pencil.  I prefer the feel of writing with a pen than with a pencil and with the advancements in water-proof and fade-proof inks I am much more comfortable using an ink pen - I've lost whole note pads that were written with ink pens by getting them accidentally wet - bad experience.  The trouble is, pens are generally much bigger/longer than my cut down pencil and can't be shortened quite as easily.

It seems that a handful of savvy manufacturers have identified this potential gap in their ballpoint pen product line-up and started offering smaller and lighter weight pens targeted at hikers and backpackers like you and me.  Here are a few of the better examples that I've discovered.

Tec PicoPen
An extremely small metal pen made primarily to go on your key-chain.  It's made to use a standard thin ballpoint refill and comes with a plastic stylus insert that can be used for touch screen PDAs or similar devices.  The body of the pen is held into the lid by a small but very powerful rare earth magnet that is strong enough to make sure it will never accidentally fall off.  This is widely available online and retails for around $18.  It comes in a beautiful gift box.

Pico Pen

Inka Pen
This is an very innovative pen that has been designed with outdoor use in mind.  It's fabricated from 304 stainless steel and carbon fiber.  The metal casing is CNC'd from solid bar stock.  It has two viton O-rings that keep the pen water-tight and ensure the pen stays in place when closed. It's a mere 3 inches long when closed and can be quickly opened and used as-is to write small notes.  For longer wrting tasks it can be opened up and converted into a full size pen, but doing so requires some tricky re organizing of the parts much like one of my son's Transformers.

Inka Pen Diagram

It comes with an Inka pressurized ink refill that writes at any angle and on almost any surface, much like the legendary Fisher Space pen refill, and with good reason.  According to Fisher, they make the Inka pen refill, a fact that Inka does not seem to openly admit to.  The Inka Pen comes in two models, a stainless steel version and a titanium version for those looking to shave off a few extra micro grams.  It's widely available at REI stores and will cost you about $20 for the steel version at least.  I don't have one of these pens, but would be interested in testing one to compare it to my trusty Fisher (Bullet) Space Pen.

Zebra F-301 Compact Pen
This is a good inexpensive pen that looks very much like the Inka pen at first glance.  When closed the F-301 is a little longer than the Inka pen measuring 4 inches.  The finish of the Zebra pen is not quite as good as the Inka pen but you get what you pay for, considering a F-301 Compact double-pack costs around $4.  It's made from machined stainless steel and composite plastics. The compact version has an extended pocket clip and has a small lanyard hole for attaching it to a cord or a key-chain.  It comes with a basic black ink refill that is usable, but is not pressurized or of high quality.

Pico Pen

I recently hacked one of my Zebra compact pens so that it would take a Unibal Signo 207 gel refill which is much larger than the one the Zebra pen comes with.  It took me a few minutes to reem out some of the plastic using a small round file, but once it was done the Signo 207 refill fit inside perfectly and gave me a very smooth and precise writing nib that has pigment-based archival quality ink.

Fisher Bullet Space Pen
What can I say about the Fisher Bullet Pen?  It's THE classic compact pen that most everyone has heard of (except for the Inka company apparently).  Let me first say that like a lot of people I'm not a big fan of the Fisher pressurized ink refill, it constantly globs up and is slow to dry, but it works every time I need it and lasts for a very long time.  It's great for quick annotations or notes but not a pen I'd want to write a long essay or novel with.  I really wish that Fisher would develop a pressurized gel refill with quality archival and fade-proof ink, but I doubt it's even possible because the ink for a pressurized cartridge has to be incredibly thick to work.

Pico Pen

Of course the Fisher Space refill is well known to be able to write on almost any surface, at any angle, and even under water - it's definitely earned its reputation.  Another small improvement to the bullet pen that I'd like to see is a lanyard hole or small split ring option.  I have a bullet pen and have often thought about drilling a small hole into the lid so that I can attach it to something rather than carrying it loose in my pocket.  Fisher does have a pen that comes with a split ring, it's called the Trekker, and looks a lot like the the Inka Pen and the Zebra F-301Compact.  I think the bullet pen would be really cool if they added a lanyard hole or a split ring option - just so long as they do it nicely and don't just drill a hole in the lid like I would.

Valiant Concepts Travel EDC Pen
This is probably one of the smallest pens that I've seen and one of the most expensive.  It's available in two models, stainless steel ($35), and titanium ($60).  It is CNC machined from a solid piece of metal and uses the standard pressurized Fisher Space pen refill.  The pen's nib is exposed by twisting the top which is a rather unusual and fancy mechanism for a pen of this size.  It's beautifully made and extremely solid, but it's so small I wouldn't want to write with it for too long.

Valiant Concepts EDC Pen

Considering that the Valiant EDC Pen is essentially just a container for housing a Fisher Space pen refill, I'd recommend looking at the Fisher Space Pen Stowaway that is almost exactly the same thing, only not quite as cool looking.  The Stowaway costs $9, uses the exact same refill and is incredibly tiny!  The Stowaway probably weighs less too.

My Bic Ballpoint Pen Hack
I like quality gear as mush as the next person, and I don't mind paying for something that I know will last me a long time and perform the task well.  But paying $20+ for a small ballpoint pen that gets occasional use seems pretty crazy to me, in fact I'd be so worried that I'd loose my expensive little pen that I'd probably not carry it as often as I should.

I'm a pretty handy guy (no, really I am), so I thought I'd take a shot at making my own "keyring" pen.  The goal was to make a cheap (possibly disposable) pen that I could rely on, that would be easy to make, and weigh almost nothing.  I figured that a standard Bic ballpoint pen would be a good candidate for some surgery.

I took out a couple of different styles of cheap Bic pens from our kitchen junk drawer and started cutting away!  First, I opened up one of the pens and removed the refill. Then I used a coping saw to cut off about two thirds of the plastic barrel, smoothing off the cut edges with some fine sandpaper.  Next, I used a small pair of wire snips to remove the plastic pocket clip that is on the lid, I wasn't going to be needing that.  I used a sharp scalpel to cut off the tail end of the ink refill so that it would fit inside the shorter barrel (an Xacto knife is pretty much the same thing as a scalpel). To my surprise I only had to trim off the empty part of the ink refill and was able to keep almost the entire supply of ink inside this much smaller body - score!

Bic Pen Hack

After reassembling the pen it looked pretty awesome, if I say so myself.  I needed a way to attach my new shorter Bic to some cord or a key-chain.  I took the point of my scalpel and twisted it around gently towards the top of the lid so that there would be a small hole, just big enough for a tiny split ring.  Using my pliers I inserted a small 7mm split ring in the lid and hey presto, I had a tiny Bic pen.  It took about three minutes to hack the pen shorter once I had grabbed all my tools.

Bic Pen Hack

In fact, it was so easy to do that I chopped a few more just to have handy. Considering that you can buy a 24-pack of these pens for about $3 at most stores, this is a very quick and affordable alternative to shelling out a lot of money on a fancy pen that does about the same thing.  I'm going to see if I can make one of my favorite Uniball Signo 207 gel refills fit into these small pens, if I can make it fit it will be a really nice small pen to have clipped on my key-chain or tied to my backpack.

Do you carry a pen or a pencil with you when you hike for taking notes? If so what type do you carry and why?  Have you tried any of the pens that I have mentioned here?  Please leave a comment if you have some information you'd like to share.

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Measuring Your Distance Using Strides

Hand Tally Counter

A useful way to estimate the distance you've walked or hiked for any given period of time is by counting the number of strides you've taken.  A stride (or pace) is the distance traveled by the heel of one foot to the next time that same foot strikes down - in other words, two steps, since in that time the other foot has also touched down once.  Knowing how far you have traveled is extremely useful for being able to accurately determine where you are on a map or trail.

Measuring Your Stride
There are many reliable ways to determine how long your average stride is, or how many strides you take to travel a pre-determined distance.  Here are two methods that I like to use.
  1. The Wet Foot Method: Create a puddle of water on a stretch of sidewalk or street where you can be walking at your natural speed before and after you reach it. Start walking at your natural pace and walk through the water. Keep walking naturally for about 10 more strides. Now measure the distance from the heel of your left footprint to the following heel of your left footprint (one stride) on several of the wet footprints and average them to determine how long your stride is at your normal walking pace.

  2. Measured Distance Short Walk
    Measure off a known distance - 20 feet or 50 feet. Then get up to speed in your natural walk and count the number of strides it takes to cover that distance. Divide the number of feet by the number of strides. Feet/strides = Stride length in feet. I personally use the metric system, so I measure off 10 meters and see how many strides it takes me to cover that distance. From there the math is easy. Note: Most quality maps use the metric system (kilometers) so knowing how to calculate distance or count you strides for kms is a good idea.
Once you have determined your length of stride or how many strides it takes you to cover a pre-determined distance, the next step is to track how many strides you've taken or how far you have gone. Here are two trusted methods to keep track of your strides and distance using simple tools.

Ranger Beads on my Daypack

Ranger Pacing Beads
Ranger beads have been used as a means of measuring distance for centuries. The tool is usually constructed using a set of 14 or more beads on a length of cord. The beads are divided into two sections, separated by a knot. 9 beads are used in the lower section, and 5 or more beads are used in the upper section. There's often a loop in the upper end, making it possible to attach the tool to your gear or the shoulder strap of your pack with a simple Prussik knot.

There are two ways to use the beads. One is to represent the number of strides you have walked, while the other is to represent the distance you have walked. Both methods requires you to know the relationship between the strides walked and the distance traveled. As previously mentioned I use the metric system. Each lower bead represents 100m and each upper bead represents 1km. I know my 100m stride count (60). Every time I reach that count, I slide one of the bottom 9 beads up to the knot. After the 9th one, all bottom beads get pushed back down, and one of the upper ones gets pushed up, marking 1km (or one "klick").

Ranger Pacing Beads

The set in the photo is one that I made myself for almost no cost using some left over paracord and some pony beads that were $1.50 for a pack of 500 at Walmart.  You'll have to remove the inner strands of the paracord to leave just the sheath if you want to make a set for yourself, commonly referred to as "gutting" the cord.  My set is capable of measuring 5km.  It can just as easily be used for measuring distance in miles. With each lower bead representing 1/10 of a mile, and each upper bead representing 1 mile - I'd have to count my strides differently of course.

Hydration Counter Variant: Instead of using Ranger Beads for land distance estimation, they also work great as a simple visual hydration counting system. Here's how it works.  Every time I drink a whole bottle of water I move a bead. I aim to have moved all the beads by the end of the day or I know I haven't been drinking enough water - which for me is usually around ten bottles on a long hot hike.

A significant draw back that I've experienced when using pacing beads is that I have to pay a lot of attention to counting as I walk. It sounds obvious, but unless you are constantly counting in your head the whole system fails.  Why is that such a big deal? Well, one of my main reasons for getting outside and hiking is to enjoy the surroundings and relax.  I like to look around and talk to a hiking buddy as I walk - having to constantly count in multiples of 60 and move beads is very distracting and memory intensive (for my pea brain at least).

A much easier way to keep track of the number of strides I've taken without the need to be constantly counting in my head is to use a simple hand tally counter.

Hand Tally Counter

Hand Tally Counters
A tally counter is a small, light weight mechanical device that sits in the palm of your hand and reliably counts the number of times the button is depressed.  I use my tally counter to count the number of strides I have taken by pressing the button every time my left foot takes a step.  Because I carry the tally counter in my left hand it feels very natural to depress the button in time to my left foot's pace.

The advantage of the tally counter is that I don't have to concentrate on counting in my head, I can easily keep pressing the button as I walk and enjoy my surroundings.  Whenever I stop I can look at the counter window to see how many strides I've taken and calculate the distance I have walked.

Operation of the tally counter is very straight forward. Push the button each time you want to track a stride. To reset the counter just turn the black knob clockwise until it resets to 00000.  I bought mine for a couple of dollars online and so far it has worked reliably.  It weighs just 1oz so it's light enough to take with me every time I hike.

Whatever method you decide to use to estimate the distance you have walked, remember that this is only an estimate at best.  It's most accurate when walking at an even pace on flat terrain.  Changing pace or going up and down hill will significantly impact the accuracy of these methods of estimation.

Do you use either of these methods for tracking distance as you hike? Or do you have a different technique that you'd like to share? Please feel free to leave a comment.

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